THURSDAY 11.14.2 - DAY 13 -

Madrid
Farewell España!


Our Last day in Madrid started late, the trip in from Barcelona had really drained us and the late night meal didn’t help. It didn’t really matter that we got a late start though as the weather was miserable, Cold, wet and windy.

This prompted a quick trip to Corte Ingles department store behind the hotel to get Illy a scarf. The Italian leather jacket was a little thin for this cold, damp weather and didn’t close high enough to keep her chest and throat warm. Boy do they have scarves here. Name a material and pattern and they had it… a nice neutral light wool scarf was acquired and we were off to Plaça del Carmen to retrieve the Volvo and return it to Avis. But first we had to “fill-er-up”.

The hotel recommended a Gasolinera near Avis but when we got there they did not have diesel and directed us to another station about 1 km away that did. His directions were fine, we Dieseled up and were on our way. Navigator Illy determined the correct route back to Avis and we pulled into the garage with 20 minutes to spare. The same mechanic that had checked us out was happy to see us return with no dings or damage and was impressed that we had put just short of 2900 kilometers on the Volvo. Yep kiddies, we really put on the mileage [1802 miles to be exact]…of course of the 2900k, at least 400 were Pirulas!

We climbed the ramp to the Avis office and check out was a snap. Now it was time to Feed Her Again.

It was a good thing I had decided to bring along 2 small umbrellas, one from the rainy night in Italy and an official “Paginas Amarillo” one. They were most handy on this blustery day as we walked back to the Hotel from Avis.

Now there is no shortage of eateries on the Gran Via in Madrid, but finding one that suited the Cuban Lady…well… that’s another thing. To be fair, Chuckie was a bit picky this time but we came upon the Taberna Galiche and it looked just right. Boy was it EVER!!!

Why is it that we always find the really neat places on our way out of town?!?! And… right across the street from the Hotel!

Taberna Galiche was a delight. When we arrived it was a tad early for the regular lunch crowd that trooped in later but that was fine by us. The staff was most cordial, and attentive suggesting several options, but the Menu del Dia was our choice.

Illy started with a great Sopa Asturias full of the traditional giant Asturian White Beans, chunks of ham and two types of Chroizos, but the Broth was “Da BOMB”… so full of flavors… it was incredible. I opted for a Pastel con Crema, an Asturian version of a Vegetable Terrine [but prepared more like a puffy baked tortilla], light and airy, floating on a heavenly cream sauce. UNBELIEVABLE! The fresh baked mini baguettes got a workout in both the soup and sauce… we could not get enough of it. The staff was watching with amusement as I was dipping here…dipping there and making “Died and Gone to Heaven” noises.

The meal was accompanied by a mellow house Vino Tinto that was by far the best house wine we have had so far.

Our entrée’s arrived promptly, Illy chose the Salmon with a light orange glaze and my Pechuga de Pollo Asturiana was drizzled with olive oil, garlic and herbs. Simple but filled with flavors, both dishes were done to perfection.

For desert we chose the Tarta Manzana, so light and tasty… along with a good Café and this meal was in the top 5 for the trip. [The chef was family and therefore unapproachable for our Chef Search, but I had to try.]

The regulars were now filling up the place and the smoke was getting a bit too heavy to handle so we settled up… took the obligatory photos for the “Here’s Where to Eat in Madrid” portion of the album and headed out to see what kind of trouble we could get into in the rain.

A quick stop at the hotel to return a few phone calls and plan the final attack on Madrid and we were off to find “Kilometer Zero”, the point in Madrid from which all mileage is measured.

We experienced another dimension of Madrid between the hotel and the Puerto Del Sol where the 0 Km marker is. We had seen it by night our first time around but discovered a serious retail zone with all the major fashion names along Calle Preciados and several of the other roads that all lead directly to Puerto del Sol and the marker. Appropriate pics were taken all around, and Chotchkie’s duly scouted.

After a brief hike to the Plaza Mayor to find an internet Site we had seen before [which turned out to be another dud] we wandered around in search of another one and decided to just head back to Gran Via and the Telefonicas office where we knew what to expect.

Mail etc. checked and some business correspondence handled, it was time to head back to the hotel for hot shower to warm up the chilled bones, [Hey… there was snow in the mountains and these two Sunny Floridians were not ready for this damp, chilly stuff] We got ready to meet the Gibaja’s for an early night of Tapas or whatever.

After warming up and some more phone work, [still trying to find that elusive Authentic Spanish Chef for the client in Miami] we walked to the corner and grabbed a cab to the Palace Hotel to meet Fernando and Elena.

The classiest meeting spot in all of Madrid is by far, the Bar and Rotunda lounge of the Palace Hotel. It rivals both the Compass Rose in the St. Francis Hotel in San Francisco and the Bull and Bear of the Waldorf Astoria for class and Elegance. I just hope the pictures that we took before come out to do it justice.

We grabbed a table in the Bar and called Fernando to let him know we were there, then settled back to enjoy the excellent cocktails, poured at the table [these boys Do Not have a light hand]. After watching the local society types and conventioneers pass through, Fernando joined us for a glass of Cava [Spanish Sparking wine] and we then headed for the street where Elena was to pick us up. She arrived promptly and we were off to Fernando’s favorite Tapas Bar, Las Bravas, near the Plaza Mayor. Parking the car was a chore as most of the lots were filling up rapidly but an underground spot was found and we climbed the stairs to the bar.

Las Bravas is your typical Hole in the Wall, neighborhood joint. A smaller version of the original, just a few blocks away, except this one has a few tables, one of which had a brass “reserved” sign waiting for us. The specialty here is the Sauce. The have a patented barbecue style sauce that goes on everything from potatoes to chorizos to calamari and tortillas. We had it all, and then some, along with a fine Catalan wine. One of the owners was in the house and stopped by to pour a special Catalan Crème after dinner drink for us that was similar to the one poured in Barcelona at La Fonda Escudellers. It is reminiscent of Holiday eggnog with just a bit more kick. It was obvious that Fernando is well known here. A proper group photo was had and we were off to the Palace for a night cap and desert. The hotel lot was full, but with his pull Fernando commandeered the GM’s parking place [hthe GM wasn’t gonna use it tonight] and we walked around the block to the main entrance, he was too much a gentleman to ask the ladies to cut through the service entrance.

A soft Brazilian jazz trio was lighting up the Rotunda as we entered and the corner banquet must have had our name on it soooooo, the brandy was forthcoming, the ladies had a light desert of strawberries and cream and we enjoyed the music and company till it was time to send them off. [Fernando had a long day… so did we]. We had planned to grab a cab back to the hotel but Elena was having none of that and ushered us to the car for a ride back to the Regente [which seemed like a real let down after the Palace…but it is clean and convenient].

Lots of hugs and kisses all around and promises to keep in touch, and we bade farewell to our Madrid connection, the ever-so gracious Gibaja’s.

Back in the room, and Illy was out like a light, but Chuckie just had to finish the NOWAT Barcelona Day 1, before turning out the light for the last time in Spain.

Ciao 4 Now
Chuck and the totally Zonked out Cuban Lady